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Elio


DEUTSCH
ITALIANO
ELIO ORLANDI

I grew up in the southern reaches of the Brenta Group where the Alpine rural culture is still strong and as an adolescent I joined my father in takling the arduous work of farming in the high mountains. After discovering my natural aptitude for alpinism, around 1974 I developed a fervour for mountaineering and climbing.
After the first few years of concentrated activity in which I was fortunate to be able to climb over again hundreds of routes with various companions, I decided to give up my comfortable office job and become a full-time Alpine guide, with special emphasis on scaling rock faces. Although I have always retained a special affection for my home mountains, the Dolomites, I broadened my scope to encompass the entire Alpine arch including the great classics in the western Alps: Mont Blanc, Monvisio, Rosa, Cervino , as well as the Dolomite summits such as the Drei Zinnen (Lavaredo), Civetta, Rosengarten (Catinaccio), Sella, Marmolada, Langkofel (Sassolungo) etc.
It would be impossible to list all the mountains I’ve climbed and I made the first ascent of numerous routes which I then reclimbed either in winter or alone, above all in the Val d’Ambiez and throughout the Brenta group.
Many of these routes are now known by the names I gave them, especially those leading up to the Cima d’Ambiez, the Cima Ceda and others.
For years I have been intent on pursuing a pure form of alpinism, experiencing adventure to the full, avoiding sensation and if possible, relying entirely on my own resources and free spirit, without being conditioned in any way, without succumbing to sudden irritations, fashion, trends etc.
In 1982 I ventured beyond Europe, having been attracted by the Patagonian peaks in Argentina, attracted by the challenges they prosed and their beauty. The experience was extremely rewarding and fruitful. Among the main peaks: in 1982 the Cerro Torre and an attempt at the Fitz Roy - Chaltén by the Supercanaleta route; the east face of the Aguille Guillaumet; Pico Poincenot along the English route (via inglese); in 1984 the Cerro Torre taking the south-east route - Aconcagua in January 1995 ; in 1985 the northern pinnacle of the Plaine as well as scaling the eastern face in Alpine style - the list is endless culminating in an attempt at the north face of the Cerro Torre in 1997, while in 1998 I was the first to climb the northern spur of the northern pinnacle of the Plaine.


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