This crag has a long history. The early practitioners of this sport trained themselves here before venturing onto the long routes in the Dolomites.
Quality of rock
The rock is a very compact limestone with excellent friction, the climbing is almost entirely on small edges, often very small.
The crag is exposed to the south and the west. It is possible to climb here on fine winter days, but after extended periods of rain some areas remain wet for quite a while (especially the area above Sector B).
Perfect protection with recently placed bolts.
Number of routes / grades
There are 40 routes from 4b to 8b, there are many easy routes, but the most frequent are in the higher grades.
From Ponte Arche proceed for 12km in the direction of Tione, then take the road for Preore. From Preore take the small road to Montagne, and 200 metres after the first turn park in a small lay-by under Sector A. For Sector B follow the path that leads leftwards climbing towards the visible crag. For Sector C continue along the crag and ascend by some steep turns, faint tracks lead to its right side. For Sector Col del Frate continue along the road from the parking (it is forbidden to drive) for nearly 500 metres, until a post and a sign indicating a path to the right. Follow this to reach the crag in 10 minutes, situated directly above the path on the steep slopes of the forest.
The crag has been equipped principally by Marino Stenico, Franco Cavallaro, Ermanno Salvaterra and Rolando Larcher.
Climber guide :
1. Arco, Klettern vom Gardasee bis zur Brenta, Michael Meisl / Martin Lochner. Lochner Verlag 2005 - www.guidebook-arco.com
2. Falesie di Arco, Valle del Sarca, Trento, Rovereto, Valli Giudicarie, Dolomiti del Brenta. Edizioni Versante sud - www.versantesud.it
Text© Michael Meisl /Lochner Verlag
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© Michael Meisl